Lost in the Andes

Guest Blog today.  My brother John chronicles his trip to Iguazu, Argentina (with input and editing from my sister); the largest waterfall in the world. 

Jungle BOOk

I was a little put out when the park guide we met just after entering Iguazu National Park said we should not even mention Niagara Falls while at Iguazu Falls.

Ok, I already had seen some pictures of the Cataratas Del Iguazu, as the Argentines call the Iguazu Falls, and knew it was great but I still dismissed the guide’s preposterous exaggerations as Argentine national pride at play.  I was oh so wrong.  Within an hour of following that guide’s recommended course through the park and being repeatedly stunned by one set of stupendous falls after another, I knew I was not in Kansas anymore, or wherever that silly little North America trickle is.

So let me show you a few pictures, outline the course we followed and fill you in on a few things I wish I had known before entering the park.

A lot of tourists we are told arrive in buses and are prodded along the catwalks first thing to look down what is called Garganta del Diablo or Devil’s Throat.   Well that alone is ‘blow your mind’ amazing, and is the easiest way to see a lot without much effort.  If you do not want to follow the way of the masses, however, and don’t mind some action and effort you can see so much more than Devil’s throat.

The better plan is to hop on the back of a special tour truck with open air benches. You are provided ecological information of the jungle as it takes you down the Iguazu river to catch a high speed boat that dramatically whisks you along to the falls.  At the falls you are transferred to another boat and instructed to carefully wrap all items that you want to remain dry in waterproof bags because this is when the real fun begins. 

You almost need to hold your breath as this boat repeatedly rams all passengers under shafts of cold water peeling down from falls called Salto San Martin and Salto Bernabe Mendez.  Topside strollers eat your hearts out; this is where you see and feel the thunderous falls pummeling your bodies. The one tidbit we wished we had been told before this dousing is that you might just want to wear your bathing suit for this and keep some dry  clothes in the waterproof bag.  

After that action is when you get some exercise to help dry off as you hike the rigorous 200 meter stairs climbing to the top of Isla San Martin.  You are rewarded with more stunning views now looking right across at the falls that previously had been your morning shower.  While waiting for the boat after descending the stairs to get off of Isla San Martin I was surprised to see a roped off section of the water for swimming.  After the workout involved in scaling that island, a jump in the waters would have been perfect, so do bring your swim suits when you go. And while I am at it, sturdy water shoes suitable for hiking may be best for the park.

Another boat takes you to the beginning of what is called the Lower Circuit trails where more breathtaking vistas unfold as you climb up the endless stairs that trace one side of the falls and bring you back to the main park level.  Yes, that was challenging exercise, not for the faint of heart,  but well worth it for the incredible "forget about Niagra Falls" views. 

Next the Upper Circuit then completes the view of this section of falls as it takes you on the topside looking down at the falls you had been encircling at this end of the park.  From that point you can take a train ride to the Devil’s Throat mentioned earlier. The finish for this particular route is another boat ride from the area of the Devil’s Throat back to the main part of the park with more ecological information provided along the way.

And it is a jungle out there so be prepared to see some wildlife. We saw birds, butterflies, capuchin monkeys, large lizards including an alligator in addition to the curious and friendly coatamundi.

This manner of seeing the park did add another 200 pesos of fees but was well worth it in assisting us in seeing so much in one day while avoiding the normal course for the larger tour groups.

Are you still wondering whether Iguazu could beat out Niagara as the best falls on the planet?  Why not come along south of the equator and make the call yourself!

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Information about Iguazu National Park:

http://iguazuargentina.com/ingles/seccion/lonuevo/pasarelas.php

http://www.scribd.com/doc/7518252/Parque-Nacional-Iguazu-Brochure